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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.